Formulation
The formulation process
How Celcode takes a skincare or haircare brief to an approved, regulatory-checked benchmark sample in five stages, from USP to regulatory check.
Celcode develops every formulation through five stages. First the product's unique selling proposition is defined; second the business parameters are set - budget, price point, actives, stability, texture, fragrance and time to market; third the R&D team formulates, choosing the base and then the hero actives; fourth samples are tested and refined with the client until a benchmark sample is agreed; fifth the final formulation is checked against regulatory requirements, including stability and shelf life, before production.
The five stages
Define the product USP
We identify the product's unique selling proposition from your brand story - for example a vegan formulation, a specific active, fast brightening or anti-ageing effects - or help you define one from scratch. Ingredient recommendations follow from the goal, and the product is positioned against the market opportunity.
Identify the business parameters
Budget and price point, active ingredients (effectiveness and efficacy), stability, texture and fragrance are fixed, together with the cost cap and the time to market. These parameters guide every later decision.
Formulate
The R&D team identifies the base ingredients first, then the hero ingredients needed to achieve the USP. Actives come from Celcode's inventory or are sourced from suppliers worldwide.
Test and sample
The team performs multiple tests on the formulation and delivers samples for feedback. Adjustments to texture, colour, fragrance and performance are made and the loop repeats until the benchmark sample is agreed.
Regulatory check
The final formulation is checked against regulatory standards for Singapore and the target markets, including product stability and shelf life, and the documentation for cosmetic product notification is prepared.
What happens between the stages
From USP to parameters. A brief that says “a brightening serum for humid climates at a mid-market price” becomes a set of numbers and constraints: a cost cap per unit, a target pH range for the chosen vitamin C system, a viscosity range for a dropper bottle, a shelf life target, and a launch date that fixes how many sampling rounds are possible.
From parameters to formula. The base is chosen for texture and delivery - a serum base for concentrated actives, a cream base for barrier support - and then the hero actives are selected and dosed. Supporting ingredients stabilise the actives, preserve the product and set the sensory profile. The textures and formats page explains how base choice shapes the product.
From formula to benchmark. Samples are produced in the laboratory and evaluated by the client. Feedback goes directly to the chemist developing the formula, and the sample is adjusted. Stability work runs alongside so that the sample being refined is one that will hold its properties over its shelf life.
From benchmark to production. The regulatory check confirms the ingredient list against the ASEAN Cosmetic Directive for the target markets, reviews claims and label wording, and prepares the notification documentation. The approved benchmark sample is then scaled to production batches under the HSA GMP-certified quality system.
Inputs and outputs
| Stage | Inputs from you | Outputs from Celcode |
|---|---|---|
| USP | Brand story, target customer, concept | Product definition, ingredient recommendations |
| Business parameters | Budget, price point, launch date, preferences | Development plan with parameters and sampling rounds |
| Formulation | Approval of the approach | First formulation and samples |
| Testing and sampling | Feedback per round | Refined samples; stability and shelf-life results |
| Regulatory check | Target markets | Compliance check, claims review, notification documentation |
Where the process fits
The formulation process is stage two of the wider product development journey, which adds packaging, manufacturing and delivery. Both routes into a product - custom formulation and adaptation of a ready formulation - follow these stages; a ready formulation moves through them faster because the base and actives already exist.
Frequently asked questions
How many sampling rounds are usual?
It varies with the product. A ready formulation with small adaptations may need one or two; a custom formulation with a new texture and several actives needs more. The development plan sets an expected number, and each round has a defined purpose.
What is a benchmark sample?
The sample that both Celcode and the client sign off as the reference for production. It fixes the formulation, texture, colour and fragrance; the regulatory check and stability results relate to this sample.
Can I change the brief after formulation has started?
Yes, but changes to actives, texture or attributes can send the formulation back a stage and repeat stability work. Changes are assessed for their effect on the plan before they are made.
- Written by
- Celcode Dermal Lab
- Published
- Updated