Formulation solutions
Hydration solutions
The hydration actives Celcode formulates with, Hydra Survivor, a hyaluronic acid matrix, Probio-Col, Pentamoist and polyglutamic acid, and how they are combined.
Hydrating formulations work at three levels - drawing water into the skin with humectants, holding it there with film-forming and barrier-supporting ingredients, and supporting the skin's own moisture systems. Celcode formulates with a resurrection-plant-derived active (Hydra Survivor), a four-molecule hyaluronic acid matrix, a probiotic-collagen ferment (Probio-Col), a maize-derived carbohydrate humectant (Pentamoist) and polyglutamic acid, chosen and combined per brief for immediate, short-term and long-term hydration.
Hydration from a formulation standpoint
Skin hydration depends on water arriving in the stratum corneum, being held there, and not escaping too fast. Formulations address each part: humectants bind water; film-formers and emollients slow transepidermal water loss; and some actives support the skin’s own natural moisturising factor, lipids and barrier proteins. Celcode has developed many products aimed at the visible effects of dehydration and ageing, with actives chosen to support hydration and to counter free-radical damage at the same time.
The actives
| Active | What it is | How it is designed to work | Supplier evidence (raw material, supplier test conditions) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hydra Survivor | An extremolyte derived from the desert resurrection plant (Myrothamnus flabellifolia), which survives long dryness, heat and UV | Protects cell membranes from structural damage at low hydration, as it does in the plant, and supports water retention between membrane layers; also aimed at stressed and ageing cells | Supplier data report 8-hour hydration from one application with a maximum moisture increase of 49.5%, a 9.9% increase in skin density of mature skin over 4 weeks, and increases in moisture, smoothness and elasticity; in vitro, a 170% increase in vitality of aged cells at 1% |
| Hyper hyaluronic matrix | A 3D matrix of four hyaluronic acids: sodium hyaluronate, hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate, sodium acetylated hyaluronate and hydrolysed sodium hyaluronate | Different molecular weights and forms permeate different skin layers while a denser surface film reduces moisture loss; the matrix structure supports skin volume | Supplier data describe twice the hydration of a single-molecule hyaluronic acid and improved moisture retention |
| Probio-Col | A probiotic ferment lysate combined with collagen extract, fermented from the ice plant of the Namib desert | Accumulates and retains moisture to plump the skin, and inhibits MMP-1 to limit collagen degradation; as a lysate it is more concentrated than a ferment filtrate | Supplier data report a visible anti-wrinkle effect and improved moisture over 4 weeks |
| Pentamoist | A plant-derived complex carbohydrate from maize kernels | Binds to the skin for long-lasting deep hydration and acts as a prebiotic that supports a balanced skin microbiome | Supplier data report hydration for up to 72 hours from one application, 43% better than glycerin on dry and normal skin, and reduced irritation from AHA use over 28 days at 1% twice daily |
| Polyglutamic acid | A natural polymer derived from fermented soybeans (natto) | Forms a hydrating film at the surface, reduces transepidermal water loss, supports the natural moisturising factor and slows hyaluronic acid degradation by inhibiting hyaluronidase | Supplier data describe water absorption of up to 4,000 times its weight, compared with about 1,000 times for hyaluronic acid |
Ingredient data on this page is supplied by the ingredient manufacturers and refers to the raw material under their test conditions. It informs the choice of an active; it is not a claim for any Celcode product. Claims for a finished product are substantiated for that product and worded within cosmetic scope at the regulatory check.
Formulation considerations
- Immediate, short-term and long-term hydration call for different mechanisms; a brief should state which matter, and over what period, so the actives and the substantiation can match.
- Base choice sets the feel: gels and serums for light daytime hydration, emulsions for barrier support, richer creams for night and repair (textures and formats).
- Humectants in dry environments need film-formers or emollients alongside them so they do not pull water from the skin.
- Viscosity and packaging. High-molecular-weight polymers thicken a formulation; the dispenser is chosen accordingly (packaging).
- Claims over time (for example hydration for a stated number of hours) require substantiation on the finished product; the test is agreed in the development plan (testing).
Product formats
Hydrating actives are formulated across toners and essences, serums, creams and moisturisers, masks and post-procedure ranges for clinics.
Download
The hydrating solutions brochure (PDF, 1.3 MB) contains the supplier diagrams and study summaries behind this page. All brochures are listed on the brochures page.
Frequently asked questions
Why combine several hydrating actives?
Because they act on different timescales and at different depths. A humectant gives immediate water binding at the surface; a multi-weight hyaluronic acid matrix works across layers; film-formers reduce water loss; barrier-supporting actives improve how the skin retains moisture over weeks. A brief that specifies immediate, short-term and long-term hydration usually needs more than one.
Is hyaluronic acid enough on its own?
Hyaluronic acid is a strong humectant, but in dry air it can draw water from the skin rather than the environment unless it is paired with occlusive or film-forming ingredients. Molecular weight also matters: the hyper hyaluronic matrix combines four hyaluronic acids of different weights and forms for this reason.
Which texture suits a hydrating product in a humid climate?
Lighter bases - gels, serums and light lotions - for daytime, with richer creams for night or barrier repair. See the textures page.
- Written by
- Celcode Dermal Lab
- Published
- Updated