Formulation solutions
Acne and oil-control solutions
The actives Celcode formulates with for oily and blemish-prone skin, Alpha Inhibit and SeboControl 5, and its approach of regulating sebum without stripping skin.
Celcode's formulations for oily and blemish-prone skin aim to reduce the conditions in which blemishes form - excess sebum, bacterial overgrowth, thickened dead-cell layers and inflammation - without stripping or unbalancing the skin. Two actives anchor this work: Alpha Inhibit, a Maclura cochinchinensis extract designed to regulate the skin's microbiota and calm overactive sebocytes, and SeboControl 5, a skin regulator designed to support antimicrobial defence, reduce inflammation and control sebum and keratinisation.
Blemish-prone skin from a formulation standpoint
Blemishes develop where four things coincide: excess sebum, a build-up of dead cells that narrows the follicle, overgrowth of the bacteria that live in sebaceous follicles, and inflammation. Hormonal shifts, stress, UV, comedogenic cosmetics and diet all feed into that environment. A formulation can address the cycle at several points at once, and the goal in Celcode’s work has been to inhibit blemish formation without unbalancing the skin, which can create other problems.
The actives
| Active | What it is | How it is designed to work | Supplier evidence (raw material, supplier test conditions) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Alpha Inhibit | An anti-comedogenic active extracted from Maclura cochinchinensis, rich in prenylated isoflavones | Helps balance the skin’s microflora by selectively inhibiting acne-associated bacteria; inhibits the main inflammatory enzymes (COX-1, COX-2 and 5-LOX); and limits DHT formation to reset overactive sebocytes and normalise sebum production | Supplier in vivo data report fewer red spots (-40%) and fewer active sebaceous glands (-8%) after 28 days, with clearer skin after 4 weeks; the raw material has received industry awards |
| SeboControl 5 | A “dermopurifier” for oily, blemish-prone skin that acts as a skin regulator | Stimulates the skin’s own antimicrobial defence (HBD2), reduces inflammation and free-radical damage, limits hyperkeratinisation, and controls sebum and peroxidisable free fatty acids | Supplier data after 8 weeks report cleaner skin in 50% of subjects, less oily skin in 78%, softer skin in 67% and better-hydrated skin in 71% |
Ingredient data on this page is supplied by the ingredient manufacturers and refers to the raw material under their test conditions. It informs the choice of an active; it is not a claim for any Celcode product. Claims for a finished product are substantiated for that product and worded within cosmetic scope at the regulatory check.
Formulation considerations
- Cosmetic scope. Products stay within cleansing, mattifying, purifying and skin-conditioning claims; therapeutic claims are not made (regulatory support).
- Gentle surfactant systems. Cleansers for oily skin are formulated to remove excess sebum without stripping, and can be sulfate-free where the brief requires.
- Non-comedogenic bases. Gel, light-lotion and serum bases are preferred; emollient choice is checked so the base itself does not contribute to congestion (textures and formats).
- Microbiome and barrier. Actives that regulate rather than sterilise are combined with hydration so the barrier is maintained.
- Compatibility with exfoliants. Brands often pair oil-control products with acid exfoliants; pH and irritation potential are considered across the routine.
Product formats
Oil-control actives are formulated in cleansers, toners, serums, light moisturisers, clarifying masks and spot treatments, and in professional ranges for clinics and salons.
Download
The acne solutions brochure (PDF, 2.3 MB) contains the supplier diagrams and study summaries behind this page. All brochures are listed on the brochures page.
Frequently asked questions
Is an anti-acne product a cosmetic or a medicine?
A cosmetic product may clean, mattify and keep oily or blemish-prone skin in good condition. Products that claim to treat acne as a medical condition are regulated as therapeutic products. Celcode formulates within cosmetic scope and sets claim wording at the regulatory check.
Why avoid stripping the skin?
Harsh cleansing removes sebum but can trigger more oil production and irritation, which worsens the cycle. Celcode's approach is to regulate sebum, bacteria and inflammation while keeping the barrier and microbiome intact.
Which formats suit oily skin?
Gel and light lotion bases, foaming cleansers with gentle surfactant systems, and serums that carry the actives without heavy emollients. See the textures page.
- Written by
- Celcode Dermal Lab
- Published
- Updated