Formulation
Textures and formats
The five bases Celcode formulates with, mousse, lotion, gel, serum and cream, and how each affects delivery of actives, stability, packaging and product fit.
Texture is the base a product is built on, and it shapes how the product feels, how it delivers its actives and which packaging it needs. Celcode formulates on five main bases - mousse, lotion, gel, serum and cream - each with a characteristic viscosity, appearance and use. The base is chosen at the formulation stage with the target customer, the actives and the packaging in mind, and it can be adjusted during sampling.
The five bases
| Base | Character | Typical products | Packaging |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mousse | Lighter than a gel with a bouncier texture than a lotion; formed as a foam at the point of use | Foaming cleansers, hair mousses and volumisers, some masks | Foam pumps, aerosol-free foamers |
| Lotion | Low viscosity, pourable, spreads easily | Body and face lotions, light moisturisers, conditioners | Pump bottles, flip-top bottles |
| Gel | Thicker than a lotion while keeping a clear or crystalline look | Cleansing gels, hydrating gels, scalp treatments, gel masks | Tubes, pump bottles, jars |
| Serum | Fluid, concentrated, designed to deliver actives in controlled doses | Serums, ampoules, boosters, scalp serums | Droppers, airless pumps, ampoules |
| Cream | Thicker than a lotion and opaque; can be whipped or aerated for a lighter feel | Day and night creams, eye creams, hair masks, rich treatments | Jars, airless jars, tubes |
How texture affects the product
Delivery of actives. The base decides which actives can be carried and how they are released. Serums carry water-soluble actives at higher concentrations; creams and lotions carry oil-soluble actives in the oil phase of the emulsion; gels suit actives that need a water-based, oil-free environment.
Stability. Each base has its own failure modes. Emulsions can separate; gels can lose viscosity; foams can collapse; actives can degrade in the wrong pH or in the presence of water. The testing page explains how stability is checked.
Sensory profile and absorption. Two of the four factors in Celcode’s R&D philosophy - absorption and penetration - are set largely by the base. A product intended for daytime use under sunscreen needs a different finish from a night treatment.
Packaging. Viscosity determines the dispenser: a serum needs a dropper or airless pump; a cream tolerates a jar but may need an airless system if its actives are sensitive to air; a mousse needs a foam pump matched to the formulation. Packaging and texture are chosen together (see packaging and branding).
Choosing a texture in a brief
You do not need to specify a base to start. Describe the product, the customer, how and when it is used, and the finish you want; the chemist proposes the base and confirms it in sampling. Where a brand has a texture preference from an existing product, bring a sample: it is the quickest way to align.
Beyond the five bases
Some products combine bases or sit between them - a gel-cream, an emulsified serum, an oil-serum - and some professional products use anhydrous or two-phase formats. These are handled within the same formulation process as custom work.
Frequently asked questions
Can the same active be formulated in different textures?
Usually yes, but not always at the same level or with the same stability. Water-soluble actives suit serums and gels; oil-soluble actives suit creams and lotions; some actives need a specific pH or an anhydrous base. The texture is chosen with the active in mind.
Does texture affect shelf life?
Yes. Emulsions (lotions and creams) need to stay physically stable; gels need their thickener to hold viscosity; foams need a stable foaming system. Stability testing checks that the chosen texture holds over the product's shelf life in its packaging.
Which texture is best for a hot, humid climate?
Lighter textures - serums, gels and light lotions - are usually preferred for daytime use in humid conditions, with richer creams reserved for night products or barrier repair. The brief and the target customer decide.
- Written by
- Celcode Dermal Lab
- Published
- Updated