Formulation solutions
Brightening solutions
The brightening actives Celcode formulates with, Melazap, Mela-glow and a tranexamic acid dipeptide, as alternatives to arbutin and kojic acid, with claims notes.
Celcode's brightening formulations use actives developed as alternatives to alpha arbutin and kojic acid: Melazap, a plant-derived brightener from Arisaema amurense that is designed both to reduce existing melanin granules and to inhibit new melanin production; Mela-glow, a Satsuma mandarin-derived tyrosinase inhibitor aimed at age spots; and a tranexamic acid dipeptide that inhibits tyrosinase activation. They are formulated in serum, cream and mask bases with stabilised vitamin C where a brief calls for it.
Uneven tone from a formulation standpoint
Uneven skin tone and dark spots come from melanin produced in melanocytes and transferred into the epidermis. Formulations approach this at three points: reducing the activity of tyrosinase, the enzyme that drives melanin production; limiting the transfer or accumulation of melanin granules; and supporting the skin’s renewal so existing pigment is shed more evenly. Antioxidants such as stabilised vitamin C support the same goal by limiting the oxidative triggers of pigmentation (see vitamin C).
Celcode’s research in this area has focused on going beyond the usual actives, seeking effective and safer alternatives to alpha arbutin and kojic acid.
The actives
| Active | What it is | How it is designed to work | Supplier evidence (raw material, supplier test conditions) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Melazap | A concentrated plant-derived brightener extracted from Arisaema amurense and purified without chemical processing | Combines two approaches: reducing existing melanin granules through melanophagy (a form of autophagy, the cell’s recycling process) and inhibiting new melanin production | Supplier in vivo data report reduced hyperpigmentation within 2 weeks, a better effect than alpha arbutin, and a non-irritating profile in patch testing; in vitro comparison with 2% kojic acid showed normal cell morphology retained at 1% Melazap |
| Mela-glow | A tyrosinase inhibitor derived from the Satsuma mandarin | Promotes a more even complexion and reduces the intensity of age spots by limiting tyrosinase activity | Supplier in vivo data with a 5% cream twice daily report a 28% decrease in age-spot colour intensity over 6 weeks and a 16.3% increase in skin lightness over 2 summer months; in vitro, 3% reduced tyrosinase activity by 46% |
| Tranexamic acid dipeptide | A peptide form of tranexamic acid, structurally similar to melanin | Acts as a competitive inhibitor of tyrosinase activation to suppress melanin production; the supplier also reports an effect on the appearance of dark circles by acting on kallikrein activity and vessel dilation | Supplier in vivo data report improvement over 4 to 8 weeks with application more than 5 times a week; the raw material received a patent award in 2018 |
Ingredient data on this page is supplied by the ingredient manufacturers and refers to the raw material under their test conditions. It informs the choice of an active; it is not a claim for any Celcode product. Claims for a finished product are substantiated for that product and worded within cosmetic scope at the regulatory check.
Formulation considerations
- Ingredient compliance. Brightening is an area with prohibited and restricted substances in ASEAN markets. Every ingredient is checked against the Directive’s annexes for the target markets during the regulatory check.
- pH and stability. Tyrosinase inhibitors and vitamin C derivatives have pH ranges in which they are stable and effective; the base and preservation system are chosen to keep the product in that range over its shelf life (testing).
- Sensitive skin. Brightening routines are used daily over weeks, so irritation potential matters. Supplier patch data inform the choice, and the product’s own compatibility is assessed where the brief requires it.
- Claims wording. “Whitening” is a common term in the region, but claim wording is set for each market at the regulatory check and kept within cosmetic scope.
- Routine context. Brightening products are usually positioned with daytime sun protection in the routine; directions can say so.
Product formats
Brightening actives are formulated as serums and ampoules, creams, toners and essences, masks and spot treatments, and in professional ranges for clinics and salons.
Download
The whitening and brightening solutions brochure (PDF, 1.2 MB) contains the supplier diagrams and study summaries behind this page. All brochures are listed on the brochures page.
Frequently asked questions
Are these actives permitted in Singapore and ASEAN?
The actives on this page are cosmetic ingredients used within the limits of the ASEAN Cosmetic Directive. Substances such as hydroquinone are prohibited in cosmetics in ASEAN markets and are not used. The formulation compliance check confirms every ingredient for the target markets.
Can brightening claims be made on the label?
Claims about brightening, evening skin tone or the appearance of dark spots can be cosmetic claims when they are supported and worded within cosmetic scope. Claims about treating a pigmentation disorder are medicinal and are not made. Wording is set at the regulatory check.
Do brightening products need sun protection guidance?
Brightening routines are usually paired with daytime sun protection, and label directions can say so. Whether a product itself carries a sun protection claim is a separate question with its own testing requirements.
- Written by
- Celcode Dermal Lab
- Published
- Updated